In buying any jewelry, one should look at more than the quality marking. Sometimes what you want to look for depends on the type of jewelry. Here are buying jewelry quality marking general guidelines:
Be satisfied that the metal is what it is supposed to be.
Inspect the claps and settings, if gems are involved.
Check any and all links carefully, regardless of the type of jewelry. Any chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and any jewelry is only as strong as its weakest link. The links may be an integral part of the jewelry or they may be used to connect the jewelry to the clasp or catch. The links should be well made, with no separation where the link is joined to form a circle. A link that is bent or is slightly apart may give way under wear, letting the rest of the jewelry or part of it slip through.
Keep in mind the intrinsic qualities of the metals, too. Platinum and silver are harder than gold, which is relatively soft in is purest forms. The purest the gold, the softer it will be and the more apt it is to wear thin or lose its shape with wear.
1) Rings.
Regardless of the kind of setting, check the stone and make sure it is held firmly in the setting, whether the setting is open or closed.
In an open setting such as high or Tiffany setting and the low or belcher setting, examine the prongs. They should grip the gem at the girdle, closing firmly just above it. The prongs should be smooth. Remember, the higher the setting, the more stone will be visible, with a greater tendency for prongs to catch on gloves or clothing. You want to be sure the prongs are made in such a way that there are no rough edges that could catch or that could lead to the prongs being bent or broken an d the loss of a stone.
In a closed setting, examine the rim or bezel that holds the gem. Some gems or coins may be set just below the rim and may have prongs at the back holding them against the rim. In this case, make sure the prongs are tight and well made to hold the coin or other material in place. As far as gold coins go, make sure the coins are mint perfect, not bent or scratched or damaged by the setting.
Cabochons are usually set in a closed setting, with the dome higher than the setting. Again, the setting should be made in such a way that the gem cannot fall out. This is particularly true if the gem has a tendency to contract or expand. A gem may feel very slightly loose, but by trying to move it you should be able to feel the firmness of the setting.
The fit of the ring is as important as a well-made setting. A too loose ring may fall of your finger, while a snug on may be difficult to get on and off. Making sure the ring fits in a store is not enough. You want to take into account whether your fingers have a tendency to swell in warm weather or not. If they do swell, you may want to consider a slightly large ring on which you can have a ring guard put.
A ring guard can be preferable, especially for rings with narrow backs. A wide ring is more difficult to fit with a guard, but it is also less apt to slip off or slip around your finger. If you do decide to have a ring made smaller, remember you are losing precious metal. At the same time, more precious metal will be needed to make the ring larger.
