Jean Schlumberfer is considered to be one of the twentieth century’s most gifted artists who bring us many fantastic designs. Natural wonders and mesmerizing beauties co-exist in his every design.With gold and dazzling gemstones as his palette, he captured the glory of flowers, exotic birds and mythical creatures in bejeweled statements unrivaled in the world of jewelry design.
Schlumberger’s first design is a gold cigarette lighter in the shape of a gold fish with gemstone eyes and flexible tail. It was now became a classic. In 1941, he created the Trophée clip for Diana Vreeland, legendary editor of Vogue. Now in the Tiffany & Co. Archives, the clip features an oval-cut amethyst and ruby shield with a warrior’s chain mail scaled with diamonds, and longbow, arrows, spear, and ruby-set sword in blue enamel.
Schlumberger is deemed as a superb draftsman, as he began each design with a drawing to discover the purity and grace of the natural forms that caught his eye. The sketch, he said, also serves as “the only link between the three members of that complex and disparate trio formed by the client, craftsman and creator.” A detailed drawing was then produced and the final design was created in precious metal and gemstones.
Schlumberger often traveled to Bali, India and Thailand to fire his imagination and create his own magical mementos, such as the exotic Oiseau de Paradis clip with yellow beryl, amethysts, emeralds, and sapphires; and the Sea Bird clip that combines a bird’s beak and head with a serpent’s body in pavé diamonds, rubies, and spike-like 18k gold plumage.
Schlumberger’s work is also distinguished by a strong sculptural quality, which is beautifully embodied in his Frame clip, a center sapphire enclosed with pavé diamonds and draped with a diamond baguette ribbon. This strength of design unifies the varied elements in his most intricate pieces. As in nature, every flower, leaf, bird and fish is unique, a true Schlumberger original shaped into a well-integrated work of art.
In later years, Jean Schlumberger returned to Paris, the city that awakened his artistic soul. He died in 1987, at the age of eighty, leaving a legacy of bejeweled flowers, ocean life and birds of wonder.